Mercerization of cotton for new properties

CELL 137

Ana Marija Grancaric, T Pusic, and Ivo Soljacic. Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, P.O. Box 818, Zagreb, 10000, Croatia
In the wet textile finishing there are many processes dependent on the adsorption properties of textile fibers. It is the first important unit in the application of chemicals on textile materials. It is well known the low adsorption of anionic charged compound on the anionic cotton surface as the consequence of the repulsion of the same charged ions occurred in the wet processes. For such reason a large amount of electrolytes is usually needed in the dyebath to overcome this barrier and achieves the sufficient affinity to the cotton. Mercerization increases chemical reactivity of cotton because the hydroxyl groups of cellulose molecules are more accessible. Mercerization additionally results in the changes of negative zeta potential of fiber surface. Regardless of whether mercerizing is done or not the addition of electrolyte in dyeing procedure is usually needed. This paper is focused on the improved the cotton-anionic compounds interaction by treating the cotton yarns with etoxylated cationic surfactant. The anionic compounds applied were stylbene derivative fluorescent whitening agents (FWA). For this purpose cotton yarns were mercerized, bleached and optical bleached. The mercerization processes were carried out in 15%, 20% and 24 % of sodium hydroxide solutions. In the stage of hot rinsing instead of water the solution of short chain etoxylated cationic surfactant was added. The effect of mercerization degree was measured by adsorption of barium hydroxide expressed as Ba-number. The fluorescence intensity of FWA was measured using fluorometer and zeta potential of the yarns was measured by streaming-current method using Brookhaven-Paar electrokinetic analyzer (EKA) with a cell appropriate for textile fibers.